The history of military footwear
The history of military footwear
For a long time, the "engine" driving the development of specialized footwear was not the market, but the needs of soldiers, which later evolved into professional military needs. There is nothing surprising about this, as the class stratification of society gave rise to inequality, which determined the "military path" as the most advantageous and fastest way to reach the top of power. Moreover, among the military were many wealthy individuals who, unlike peasants and craftsmen, could afford to have footwear custom-made.
The history of military footwear probably should be traced back to the Roman Empire, which spanned vast distances, and a well-shod army had no trouble with long marches through rugged terrain. The Romans, using straps and steel or bronze nails, transformed elegant Greek sandals into military footwear. Boots laced up to the top of the shin, reinforced with leather inserts, and different combinations of elements determined the rank and social status of the soldier. Gaius Caesar Germanicus earned his second name "Caligula" because he wore boots reminiscent of army caligae in his early childhood—soldier's footwear well-suited for long marches with spikes on the soles, sandals with long straps reaching to the middle of the shin. From the word "caliga" also came the ancient Russian expression "caliki perehozhie," referring to people wearing tied sandals. Roman military footwear set the tone for specialized footwear for several centuries to come.
In the Middle Ages, the warrior's costume underwent a radical change. Leather garments were replaced by metal armor. The footwear of knightly armor often featured a long toe. The toes of sabatons (metal footwear) were pointed and elongated, with larger ones often being detachable. Their intricate shapes depended on the specific fashion of that period. Such pointed metal toes were designed exclusively for use while mounted on a horse, preventing the knight from losing his stirrup in battle and enabling him to deliver deadly kicks. The toes were removed when the rider wished to dismount, especially if their shape curved downward.
The first metal sabatons appeared in Italy in the mid-14th century and consisted of 4-5 segments, closely resembling contemporary footwear, with short pointed toes. In the 15th century, sabatons in Milanese and Gothic armor were made with long pointed toes, which could be detached for walking. In contrast, the sabatons of Maximilian armor followed the fashion of the time and were wide and blunt, earning them the nickname "bear paws." Later sabatons had either round or slightly pointed toes but were not long. They fell out of use along with greaves in the second half of the 16th century. Subsequently, after going out of fashion, these sabatons and footwear were dubbed "duck feet."
During the English Civil War, soldiers were issued three pairs of boots or shoes to alternate after each march. Buckled shoes were in use from 1660 to 1800, while boots—high-legged footwear for cavalry—were worn from the 18th century until the First World War.
At the end of the Napoleonic Wars, the British Army began equipping itself with lace-up boots, which completely replaced the old buckle shoes. These boots were named after the Prussian Marshal Blücher, who participated in the Battle of Waterloo. According to legend, Blücher's soldiers wore boots with open lacing. "Blüchers" remained in use throughout the 19th century and were utilized in many wars, including the Crimean War (1853-1856), the First Anglo-Zulu War (1879), and the First Anglo-Boer War (1880-1881).
During the War of 1812, the infantry units of the US Army were equipped with boots made of genuine calf leather. From the 1820s, high-legged boots began to be produced. During the First World War, British, American, French, and Belgian forces used the so-called "trench boot" made of thick leather and with a thick sole, specially designed for the harsh conditions of trench warfare.
Starting from 1940, the US Army had a need for paratrooper boots due to the formation of airborne units. Existing models of similar footwear were analyzed, including German jump boots with laced-up design and rubber soles, as well as those used by American firefighters (their boots featured a strap and buckle to secure the ankle).
From January 1941 to July 1942, trials were conducted during which the boots underwent some modifications. The final version was approved in August 1942 under the name "Paratrooper Jump Boots" or "Corcoran Field II," in honor of their initial contractor, Corcoran from Stoughton, MA. The founding year of the company is considered to be 1941 when the testing of these boots for military service began.
The first general-issue boots of the US Army, officially called "Boots, Combat Service," were introduced in 1943 during World War II. These were modified military boots made from a single piece of leather with a high cuff tightened by straps, and the heel and sole were made of synthetic rubber.
In 1957, the US Army began transitioning to black patent leather boots, a process that was only completed at the end of the Vietnam War. During the same conflict, "jungle boots" were introduced for wear in tropical conditions. Both models featured straight molded soles. Black boots (without the patent finish) continued to be worn even after Vietnam.
In 2002, the US Army transitioned to new boots made of rough leather, called the "Army Combat Boot." These boots were accompanied by socks featuring moisture-wicking systems as part of the standard issue.
In Rus', the first mass-produced military footwear was considered to be the ordinary lapti. Wealthier warriors could afford to purchase leather chuni or porshni.
From the mid-16th century during the reign of Ivan the Terrible, the foundation of the Russian regular army emerged—the musketeer regiment consisting of three thousand men. Fourteen musketeer regiments had identical designs but different colors of kaftans and boots.
During the era of Peter the Great, soldiers were issued blunt-toed boots with buckles, while cavalry wore boots with flared tops. From 1778, Field Marshal Potemkin initiated a large-scale military reform. Many attributes of clothing disappeared in favor of practicality; boots were shortened, becoming softer and more comfortable.
The subsequent Russian autocrats gradually replaced military footwear: Paul I introduced the production of lacquered boots with high shafts, Alexander I abolished lacquered boots and shoes, and introduced knee-high leather boots. Nicholas I abolished leather boots and introduced short ankle boots, over which black woolen gaiters with five or six buttons were worn. Alexander II reintroduced knee-length boots with gaiters into the army.
During World War I, the Russian army was equipped with boots and short ankle boots wrapped with puttees.
The beginning of the 20th century was marked by industrialization and a gradual shift in the traditional use of footwear in armies worldwide. Mass production of rubber and the gradual introduction of leather substitutes systematically displaced leather footwear. Traditional styles of boots and shoes were now being made from different materials.
In 1935, I.V. Plotnikov developed a technology for making boots based on multilayered cotton fabric treated with film-forming substances. They were successfully used during the Soviet-Finnish War, after which the footwear was deemed unsuitable— the material cracked and broke in the frost, poorly retaining heat, and many soldiers experienced eczema from chemical reagents. However, at the beginning of the Great Patriotic War, the issue of supplying military footwear became acute. It was then that the knowledge and technologies developed by Plotnikov proved useful. Mass production of boots began at the "Iskozh" plant (Kirovsky plant), from the first letters of which came the name "kirza".
Since then, the USSR, and now Russia, has been the world's largest producer of kirza using Plotnikov's technology, which has remained unchanged since 1941. Approximately 85% of modern kirza production in Russia is intended for the manufacture of military footwear (boots and shoes). In addition to kirza, leather is also used in the production of military footwear. The majority of boots are combined: 15% (the lower part, including the toe) is made of leather, while the rest (including the shaft) is made of kirza. By the present time, approximately 150 million pairs of kirza footwear have been produced.
In 2007, the Russian government adopted a law on transitioning to a new military uniform, including military boots—berets. The transition from kirza boots to high-laced military boots will take place gradually, and by 2013, the army will fully transition to the new uniform.
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