History of the Soviet Afghanka Uniform (M88) – Afghan War Guide + How to Assemble Full Set

Soviet Afghanka Uniform (M88): History, Variants & How to Assemble Your Set

Soviet Afghanka uniform M88 guide - overview illustration of USSR field uniform, caps and boots
Afghan War and Cold War Soviet equipment - recommended guides
If you want more Soviet uniform research for reenactors, collectors and history fans, these related articles from SovietUniform.com will help you go deeper into the Afghan War and Cold War period.
Quick navigation

Afghanka and OKZK-D uniform


The uniform of 1969 did not meet the modern military requirements, leading to the decision to develop a new uniform in the mid-1970s. The basis for creating the Afghanka was the OKZK-D, a paratrooper general-purpose uniform developed in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

OKZK-D jacket vs Afghanka M88 uniform comparison - USSR field uniform evolution
The OKZK-D had two variants - an early version until the mid-1970s and a late version. The early version featured two chest pockets, two hand pockets, and two openings for attaching suspenders. The trousers included two front pockets, two side pockets, reinforced knees, belts, two back pockets, and reinforcement on the buttocks. The jacket was tucked into the trousers, and suspenders were worn under the jacket.

Soviet Afghanka M88 jacket - original USSR field uniform used during the Afghan War
Afghanka jacket pockets close-up - M88 Afghanka jacket details, fabric and pocket layout
Soviet Afghanka M88 pants with suspenders - original Afghan War uniform trousers

The late version of the OKZK-D saw some changes. The peculiar suspenders from the early version disappeared, but a piece from a Telnyashka was added around the neck area. The trousers remained mostly the same, except for the removal of the rings for suspenders due to their unnecessary nature.

Soviet Afghanka jacket with telnyashka - M88 uniform collar detail from Afghan War period

OKZK-D telnyashka neck insert detail - VDV influence on Afghan War uniform design

Soviet Telnyashka shirt (Afghan War and VDV style)
A telnyashka is a key part of many Soviet field setups and is often seen with Afghanka-style uniforms.
View Soviet Telnyashka

Experimental version of the Afghanka

Later, the experimental version of the Afghanka emerged. The distinctive features of the experimental Afghanka included only one pocket on the left sleeve, Velcro fasteners on the chest pockets, and two rows of buttons on the lower pockets. The internal pockets had flaps and were made from water-resistant materials, with two pockets at the back of the jacket.

Experimental Afghanka M88 field jacket - original USSR uniform design features and pockets
Inside view of Afghanka jacket - interior pockets and lining of original M88 uniform
On the trousers, two pockets had two rows of buttons. In the experimental conditions of the Soviet Union in 1982, Afghankas began to be produced with slight modifications.

Afghanka M88 uniform pants - original USSR Afghan War trousers with pocket layout

Soviet Afghanka visor cap


The forage cap was borrowed from the border troops of the 1976 model. The cap had two buttons for fixation on top and eyelets for ventilation. In 1988, the ventilation eyelets were moved forward to allow ventilation even with the ear flaps fastened up.

Afghanka visor cap (M88 style)
If you are assembling a complete Afghanka uniform set, the visor cap is one of the most recognizable pieces.
View Afghanka visor cap
Reenactor wearing Afghanka uniform M88 - Soviet Afghan War field clothing set
Soviet soldier wearing Afghanka visor cap and field jacket - Afghan War uniform look

Soviet Afghanka pants


The jacket had 2 pockets on the chest, 2 pockets on each sleeve, and closed with Velcro. It also featured reinforcements on the elbows and cuffs with buttons. There were four ventilation holes under the armpits. In the back part of the jacket, there was more material, colloquially referred to as "Garmoshka," providing more freedom of movement.

Afghanka M88 pants - side pockets, reinforced knees and field trousers details

The trousers had pleat seams for convenient storage, two regular pockets, two side pockets, and a small pocket on the front for a personal medallion. The belt had two rows of loops for officer and soldier belts. There was a waist adjustment with buttons at the back. The material was reinforced on the knees.

Soviet Afghan VDV Butan uniform

Mass production started in 1985

 In 1984, the introduction of camouflaged Afghankas for the Airborne Troops (VDV) and Marine Infantry in the Butan camouflage pattern marked a significant shift, leading to a clear division.

Afghanka Butan camouflage uniform - Soviet VDV and marine infantry Afghan War field clothing

For the Marine Infantry, the summer field uniform in the Butan camouflage was constructed in the same style as the sandy Afghanka, following the TU-17-08-172-82 standard.
However, the VDV's Butan Afghanka took a different route with three distinct types, each reflecting various design modifications depending on the year of production.

Type 1 Butan VDV uniform

Butan VDV uniform Type 1 - Soviet airborne Afghanka style jacket and pants


The first type, emerged in 1983. The VDV's Butan Afghanka of the first type was manufactured from 1984 to 1989, lacking shoulder straps for epaulettes on the jacket. It retained the same cutouts for suspenders as the initial sandy Afghanka, as paratroopers favored the older version with suspenders.

The trousers of the first type featured suspenders.

Type 2 Butan VDV uniform

Butan VDV uniform Type 2 - Soviet airborne jacket with shoulder strap loops

The 2 type of VDV uniform was produced from 1989 to 1990, introducing shoulder strap loops on the jacket.

The 3 type, produced from 1990 until victory, no longer had cutouts for suspenders, and accordingly, suspenders were not present.

Type 3 Butan VDV uniform

Butan VDV uniform Type 3 - Soviet airborne Afghan War reenactment jacket

Butan and Barvikha camouflage


Types 1 and 2 were exclusively produced in the Butan camouflage pattern, while the third type was available in both Butan and Barvikha camouflage patterns. This diversification marked a significant evolution in the design and production of the Afghanka uniform for the VDV, adapting to the changing needs and preferences over the years.

Barvikha vs Butan camouflage comparison - Soviet VDV Afghan War uniforms worn by reenactors
Barvikha vs Butan VDV pants comparison - Afghan War uniform trousers patterns
Original Soviet soldier belt with buckle
A correct belt helps complete an Afghanka uniform set and improves the overall silhouette for reenactment.
View Soviet soldier belt

Soviet Winter Afghanka uniform


Winter Afghanka
The Winter Afghanka came in two variations - sandy and Butan camouflage, with an additional airborne (desantny) version.

Soviet winter Afghanka jacket - blue fur collar winter field coat for Afghan War period
What distinguishes the general-purpose greatcoat from the airborne one? In the general-purpose greatcoat, the pockets on the sleeves are patch pockets, while in the airborne version, the pockets on the sleeves are slit.

Soviet winter Butan uniform


Soviet winter Butan camouflage jacket - blue fur collar winter uniform for Afghan War and Cold War era
The sandy-colored winter greatcoat followed the TU-17-08-194-84 standard. The airborne winter greatcoat, according to TU-17-08-193-84, featured a built-in hood and a detachable warm lining.

Soviet winter Butan pants with insulated lining - original USSR winter field trousers
Winter trousers for both the general-purpose and airborne versions included suspenders, two slit pockets, two cargo pockets, and two rear pockets. The only difference between the general-purpose and airborne trousers was the universally shared left pocket; the airborne trousers had this pocket, while it was absent in the general-purpose variant.

Soviet winter Butan uniform trousers - rear pocket detail, buttoned flap

Afghan combat boots M88

During the Afghan War, Soviet soldiers faced challenging conditions posed by Afghanistan's terrain and climate. To ensure high mobility and reliable protection for soldiers' feet on the battlefield, boots with nailed soles, colloquially known as "Derevyashki," were widely utilized. These unique boots became a crucial part of the military gear, offering a combination of durability, stability, and outstanding traction on various surfaces.

Soviet combat boots - black leather ankle boots used by USSR soldiers
Afghan combat boots M88 - Soviet black leather boots side view

You can order these boots from our store, and they will perfectly complement your Afghan War costume, known as "Afghanka." 

Buy Afghan combat boots M88 (original USSR Army boots)
These boots match an Afghanka uniform set and help complete an authentic Soviet Afghan War uniform impression.
Buy Afghan combat boots M88
Further reading - Afghan War and Cold War Soviet uniforms
These articles are highly relevant if you are building a complete Soviet Afghan War uniform set or researching Cold War Soviet field equipment.

FAQ: Afghanka, M88 uniform and Afghan War setup

What is an Afghanka uniform?

The Afghanka is a Soviet field uniform associated with the Afghan War era. Collectors and reenactors often use the term "Afghanka uniform" to describe the M88-style jacket and pants set, including its variants and camouflage versions.

Is Afghanka the same as M88 uniform?

In many English queries, "m88 uniform" and "Afghanka" are used together (for example: "m88 afghanka"). In practice, people usually mean the Afghan War era field uniform cut that became widely recognizable in the 1980s, including sandy and Butan camouflage variants.

What are the main Afghanka variants collectors look for?

Common variants include early design influences from OKZK-D, experimental features (pocket layouts, closures), and later mass-produced versions. For VDV and marine infantry impressions, Butan camouflage versions are a major subcategory.

How do I assemble a complete Soviet Afghan War uniform set?

A typical set includes the Afghanka jacket and pants, headwear (often an Afghanka visor cap), and period-correct field gear. For many impressions, a belt and appropriate footwear (Afghan combat boots M88 style) complete the look.

Why do people search for "Afghanka jacket" specifically?

The Afghanka jacket has distinctive pocket placement, closures, reinforcement areas and back construction details. These features help identify variants and are important for accurate reenactment and collecting.


Looking for original Soviet boots and accessories? Please visit: Soviet Boots Store

More information about Soviet uniforms

SovietUniform.com - Soviet uniforms and gear guides

The material for this article was taken from the YouTube channel: @RedIvanAirsoft